Staghorn Fern

Staghorn Fern thrives in bright indirect light — it mimics the filtered canopy light of its native Australian rainforest; an east-facing window or a few feet from a south window with a sheer curtain is ideal, and a few hours of direct morning sun is fine.

In medium light, staghorn fern survives but grows slowly and the antler fronds may be shorter and less forked. It is not a good choice for dark rooms or north-facing windows without supplemental lighting. If your space is dim, Boston fern or snake plant are better options — our best indoor plants guide covers low-light picks.

Direct afternoon sun through a south or west window can scorch the delicate fronds, causing brown, dry patches. Mount the fern on a wall that receives bright, filtered light and rotate it occasionally for even growth.

Staghorn Fern has different watering needs depending on how it is grown. Mounted ferns dry out faster than potted ones; soak the mount thoroughly once a week in spring and summer, stretching to every 10 to 14 days in winter. The shield frond should feel pliable, not crispy.

When you do water, take the mount to a sink or tub and soak it under running water for 2 to 3 minutes, allowing water to saturate the root ball and moss. Let it drain completely before rehanging. Inconsistent watering causes the antler fronds to brown at the tips.

For potted staghorn fern, water when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feel dry, similar to other tropicals. The key is keeping the moss or soil consistently moist but not soggy — too much sitting water suffocates the roots.

Staghorn fern can be grown mounted on a board, in a basket, or in a pot with a loose, airy mix. The mount method is the most natural and produces the most dramatic display. The key is providing a medium that retains moisture but drains freely.

For mounting, use a piece of sphagnum moss as the growing medium, secured to a wooden board or plaque with fishing line or wire. The moss holds moisture against the roots while allowing air circulation. For potting, a mix of two parts orchid bark, one part peat moss, and one part perlite gives the right balance.

Terra cotta pots work well for potted specimens because they dry out faster than plastic, which helps prevent root rot. For mounted specimens, choose a wall that receives bright, filtered light and can support the weight of the wet mount.

Staghorn Fern propagates through pups (offsets) that develop at the base of the parent plant. Each pup is a miniature version of the parent with its own shield frond and developing antler fronds.

When a pup is at least 3 to 4 inches across with its own root system, it can be separated from the parent. Use a clean, sharp knife to cut the pup away, making sure it has some roots attached. Mount or pot the pup using the same method as the parent.

Division is best done in spring when the plant is actively growing and recovers quickly. Avoid dividing in fall or winter when growth slows. For a step-by-step walkthrough of propagation basics, see our propagation guide.

Staghorn Fern is susceptible to scale, mealybugs, and spider mites — especially in dry winter air; scale is the most common, appearing as small, brown, waxy bumps on the fronds.

For light infestations, wipe the affected areas with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol or apply diluted neem oil. Our neem oil for houseplants guide covers mixing ratios. For heavier infestations, isolate the plant and treat weekly until the pests are gone.

The most common non-pest problems are brown tips (low humidity or inconsistent watering), yellowing fronds (overwatering or root rot), and crispy shield fronds (normal aging — the brown shield frond is natural and should not be removed).

Staghorn fern's seasonal rhythm is tied to its epiphyte nature — in the wild it absorbs nutrients from rain and decaying leaves trapped by its shield frond. In spring and summer, mimic this by diluting liquid fertilizer to quarter strength and pouring it over the shield frond, letting it soak into the moss.

Fall is spore-producing season for mature ferns. You'll notice brown, velvet-like patches on the undersides of the antler fronds — these are spore patches, not disease. Don't remove them; they're how the plant reproduces. Reduce watering as growth slows.

Winter is rest period. Mounted ferns may need soaking only every two to three weeks, depending on your home's humidity. The shield frond will naturally brown and papery — this is normal and protective, not a sign of decline. Resist the urge to peel it off.

Staghorn Fern is non-toxic to cats and dogs, making it one of the safest houseplants for pet owners. The ASPCA lists it as non-toxic, and even if a curious cat chews a frond, it is unlikely to cause more than mild stomach upset.

For humans, the fronds are not known to cause skin irritation. However, the spores can cause mild allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. Wear gloves when handling mature fronds with visible spore patches.

If you want a pet-safe mounted specimen, staghorn fern is an excellent choice. For a broader list, our houseplant collection flags pet safety on every profile.

The standard Platycerium bifurcatum is the most common, but a few cultivars and related species offer different frond shapes and growth habits; all share the same care requirements — bright indirect light, moderate watering, and warm temperatures.